Sewing Machine Needles

Several years ago, I worked in a sewing machine store where we obviously sold sewing machines and I would always get tickled when a husband would walk in and asked to buy needles for his wife's machine. And I would say, what kind of needle does she needs? And he would say, well, needle for the sewing machine. And I said, what kind of sewing does she do? You know, on fabric?

Well, the reason I asked all the questions was not to be rude, but it's because we have different size needles for different types of sewing. It's not one needle does all. So today I've brought several different needles that I'd like to show you that are typically used in quilting and let you know what the different numbers mean. If you see a package of needles that says ballpoint on it you do not want those unless you are doing polyester knits. The ballpoint needle is strictly for knits because as the name implies, the end of the needle is rounded like a ballpoint pen and that's so that it does not pierce the knit.

It will rather roll off and go into the hole where it's woven into. The primary ones that you will use as a quilter though are the universal needles and universal is, as it implies it is for the majority type of sewing that we do. And typically the number on it will be an 80 12. That is typically what you want to use for your piecing. For quilting you will actually see 80 12 on the needles and it will say quilting.

The reason for this is that there is a slight difference between the two. The size is almost the same but the needle is meant to handle the thicker application of going through three levels, your top level where you're piecing is your batting and then the lining or backing fabric. So when it says quilting, it is not meant to piece. It is meant strictly for quilting. Now I said that the 80 12 universal was a good one for piecing that's typically what you use but I can encourage you to try the 70 10 sharp a 70 10 is a finer needle.

And as the name implies, a sharp has a very pointed end that is, that leaves a very fine hole, the larger the number on a needle the larger the hole it's going to leave typically. So try the 70 10. I think you'll really like it for very accurate piecing. Now sometimes you'll see a 90 14 needle and typically it will say jeans or it may say quilting 90 14 is a thicker needle. So it can penetrate heavier fabrics such as jeans.

This is a good one for piecing. If you are doing a jean quilt or a denim quilt because the fabric is much heavier and especially where your seams overlap you're going to need that pushing power that this particular needle will give. When it comes time to quilt though go ahead and get the 90 14 quilting needle. Because again, it's just a little bit more dense stronger material, and it will pierce those levels of the heavy piecing of the jean fabric. It will then pierce through the batting and then through whatever your backing is.

Now another needle that you will see is a Metafil Needle. And it normally comes in an 80 12. Metafil is for metallic threads. So when you're doing the decorative thread work on your quilt, you would want to get this needle if you're using metallic thread, the eye and the needle is larger than in a regular 80 12 needle and it will make it that the thread won't break quite as quickly. I'm not going to guarantee it won't break but it will be, it will not break as often as with a standard needle.

You also will see one that says top stitch 116. Again, this is an even larger eye and a more durable needle. And it is typically used with your 12 weight thread which is a very thick thread. It is the largest thread that will go through a needle. And so I oftentimes will use the top stitch needle instead of the Metafil for my metallic work, or if I'm using the heavy decorative threads.

So again, the typical one you're going to use is the universal 80 12, but for your piecing, go ahead and give the 70 10 a, a try. I think you'll really enjoy it for more accuracy. When at times comes time to quilt, make sure that it says quilting. And remember that the larger the needle, the more heavy duty fabric that it can take the larger the eye and the more densely you can, can quilt with that thick, thick needle. But remember, it's going to make a larger hole as opposed to the lower numbers, which make a smaller hole.