Binding a Quilt with Minky Fabric

Kelly Hanson
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Duration:   6  mins

Learn a quick and easy way to bind a quilt with minky. Kelly Hanson shows you what tools you can use that make mitered corners easier and gives you tips for working with minky.

Minky

Minky is a popular fabric to use on quilts because of its soft and fuzzy feel. However, working with minky can sometimes be difficult because it sheds when cut and has a tendency to not lay flat when being worked with. Kelly shares several great tips on how to make working with minky easier, including tips on how to eliminate a lot of the fabric shedding.

Binding

When most quilters first learn how to bind a quilt they are taught how to make a binding separately that is then attached to the quilt. For this tutorial, Kelly shows how to bind a quilt with minky that is not only used for the binding but for the backing as well. Kelly starts with a small quilt that has already been quilted and the backing minky fabric has been left larger than the quilt top. She then shows how to use an easy mitered corner tool to determine where to trim, sew and cut the mitered corner. Where you line the ruler up along your quilt border or outer edge will determine how thick your binding is. When binding a quilt with minky, you will want to have a thicker binding than you would with a cotton binding because of the extra bulk. After the corner has been stitched and trimmed, Kelly shows how to complete the mitered corner by simply folding the minky towards the wrong side. For this step, Kelly uses a product called Steam a Seam 2 that helps hold the binding edge in place. She demonstrates how to use it and then gives ideas on how to finalize the binding with either hand stitching, machine stitching or even decorative stitching.

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10 Responses to “Binding a Quilt with Minky Fabric”

  1. Jes

    This was a very incomplete video! She never explained how she prepared her quilt top and backing. Her technique for “binding” was to turn over the backing to the front. She never said how much of a Minky border you need to leave all around the quilt top and how to square it all up, and for that matter how to quilt it so you have what you need left over for binding. Not very well done

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  2. Laura Olson

    I dont understand the point of the steam a seam2. Doesn’t it need to be ironed again to be sticky on the remaining paper side after paper is removed???

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Laura,

      Steam a Seam 2 is an adhesive. And yes, once you remove the paper backing you press one more time to adhere the other side of the adhesive to the fabric.

      Cheers,
      Ashley NQC Video Membership

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      • OLIVIA

        In finding a tutorial for the quick and easy self mitering tool it is my understanding that you would cut the back material to be twice a wide as you would want your end binding to be. That is if you want the binding to be 3/4 inch wide (showing) then you would cut the backing to be twice as wide or 1 1/2 inches wider then the quilt. Is that how you determined the size to cut your backing?

        Reply
        • Customer Service

          Hello Olivia,

          Yes, that is correct- the backing will need to be twice as wide as you want your binding to be. So for a 1/2″ binding you would need 1″.

          Cheers,
          Ashley

          Reply
  3. SHARON

    I’m sorry to say but I was very confused by this video. It was not clear how wide to the Minkee and/or where to sew the binding down. Karen’s question, I believe is asking about whether it is necessary to turn under or finish the raw edge(s) of the Minkee binding, or if it can remain “raw” on both the front and the back.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Sharon,

      Yes, it is necessary to turn under the raw edges of the minky before sewing. Minky will ravel or “shed” if the raw edges are not folded under.

      Cheers,
      Ashley NQC Video Membership

      Reply
  4. Karen

    How wide did you square up your quilt to determine borders for binding width? You don’t turn down the raw edge when you turn over the border, so that’s not needed?

    Thank you,
    Karen

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi, Karen. When using this tool, you will have squared up your quilt and have cut the backing fabric 1 1/2″ larger than the quilt top. There are marks on the tool that help you ensure your backing fabric is the correct size and that it is lined up with the quilt top. I apologize, but I’m not sure what you mean by not during down the raw edge? If I didn’t completely answer your question, please feel free to send a follow up!

      Reply
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